Bellini 1 Plague 0

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At 15 euros this Bellini wasn’t the bargain of the trip, but to have a Bellini at Harry’s Bar (haunt of Ernest Hemmingway and Orson Welles) in Venice its certainly worth it!  The original Bellini recipe is one third peach puree (white peach) and two thirds Prosecco (an Italian sparkling white).

To geto to Harry’s Bar normally I would have needed to catch a vaporetto (ferry) to San Marco or do a 40 min walk across the Bridge at Accademia, through Campo Santo Stefano and then down Calle Largo XXII Marzo, and past San Moise, but on November 21 a wonderous thing happens.    Venetians celebrate the city’s deliverance from a nasty epedemic of bubonic plague in the 1630.    They do this by ‘walking’ over the Grand Canal from San Marco to Santa Maria della Salute, the church they built to celebrate the city’s salvation.   Every year for three days a pontoon bridge is erected between the traghetto stops Giglio and Salute and Venetians walk over the pontoon to give thanks at the church.    Masses are held on the hour and rather than a sombre religious feeling there is a huge sense of festival, which is reinforced by the candle sellers in the campo around Salute and then the food and balloon vendors along Rio Terra dei Catacumeni and Al Saloni.

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